Jeepney Press
GOSE: Where Mountains and Myths Meet
Jeepney Press
GOSE: Where Mountains and Myths Meet
by Geraldine Limpo
We live in Nara. Avoiding the crowds that flocked to the popular sights in Kansai during this year’s lovely spring, we visited lesser-known places and made surprising discoveries.
Gose (also known as Goshomachi), an 11-minute drive (or a 30-minute train ride) from home, offers a full day’s worth of rich activities for the young and the young-at-heart. It is located between two mountain ranges**, Kondo and Katsuragi;** thus, water in Gose that flows from the mountain peaks is considered high-quality. These pristine mountain waters supply nearby sake breweries and hot springs.
Outside Yucho Shuzo (the brewery that produces the popular sake Kaze no Mori), we saw a young lady place a wooden bucket in front of an underground water tap on the street before folding her hands in prayer and bowing her head. When one of us inquired moments later, she patiently explained that it is a local custom to pray for good shikomimizu for brewing sake (otherwise known as nihonshu). The softness of the mineral-rich water flowing from the mountain peaks is critical in producing mellow and flavorful sake. The other breweries in Gose are Katsuragi Shuzo and Chiyo Shuzo.
The pure waters from the Katsuragi-Sanroku region also irrigate the rice fields that produce the delicious locally grown rice varieties. Hinohikari is a popular small grain that retains its stickiness even when cold, making it an ideal choice for making onigiri or bento. Naturally, it is also perfect for making warm rice dishes such as takikomi gohan (steamed rice with seasoned ingredients such as shiitake, carrots, and hijiki) and tamago kake gohan (raw egg mixed briskly into freshly cooked hinohikari).
The underground waters are also combined with locally grown soybeans and magnesium-rich sea salt. This mixture is slowly brewed in large cedar barrels to make Katagami soy sauce. The flavorful Katagami soy sauce is available in thin and thick formulations.
Gose is part of the Yamato Province, the site of many Japanese mythologies. One links the legitimacy of (Japanese) imperial rule to the Shinto supreme deity, Amaterasu. No wonder that hot springs in Gose and many places in the Yamato Plain are thought to benefit both physical and spiritual health. Located at the foot of Mount Katsuragi is the onsen called Kamokimi-no-yu. A short walk from Gose Station is the sento called Gose Takara-yu.
That Gose is considered a merchant town is reflected in the entrepreneurial pursuits in this city. Takara-yu is part of a business group that includes the Rita Gosemachi guesthouse (one of a few options for accommodations in Gose), Morison café and bar, and Kemuri restaurant. Some of us may be familiar with Morison. It was founded as Kikaku Seisakusyo in 1918 by Torajiro Tanikawa, and it handcrafted pens that were all the rage in the 1950s–1960s. The 14K and 18K gold nibs of Morison fountain pens, considered most suitable for writing Chinese characters, are rare collectibles. The gentleman behind the counter at Morison café and bar warmly shared the history of the company and gamely pointed to a collection of rare pens in a framed wall hanging. When we asked if there were any other pens from the last manufacturing date in the 1970s, he whipped out a box of sleek ballpoint Morisons.
We enjoyed farm-to-table western-style dishes in Kemuri. The site of this restaurant was once a cigar shop cum-bar; hence the name (which means smoke or fumes). The darkened wooden planks of the interior are poignant reminders of this past, as are the glass windows and old black-and-white photos pasted on a wall.
Nearby, we discovered the chocolate shop Tatsunori Sato. Sato, who trained as a chocolatier in Ginza, fell in love with the sake Kaze no Mori and pitched the idea to Yucho Shuzo brewery to create chocolates that complement sake. Sato’s handcrafted chocolate-covered rice puffs, hazelnuts, orange peels, and roasted pecans use internationally sourced cocoa from countries like Switzerland and Belgium.
Petit Ami nearby sells French pastries, including financiers and macarons, in delicate Japanese flavors such as kaki and yuzu. Akebono sells scrumptious ichigo daifuku (soft, chewy mochi filled with a whole strawberry covered in sweet red paste, anko) and sakura mochi. If pressed for time, the one-stop shop offering food and drink souvenirs made in Gose is Higashigawa Saketen.
Gose is in present-day Nara. As many of us know, Japanese herbal medicine, kampo, originates from 7th-century Nara. On my next trip to Gose, I will join a guided tour of the ancient medicine chests and documents exhibited at Sankomaru Traditional Medicine Museum and find out how Sankomaru, a digestive preparation formulated from four local herbs, was made and used over time. I also plan to visit Muro no Oobaka, the large keyhole-shaped burial mound constructed in the 5th century. I want to say prayers at Takakamo Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest, and enjoy the sight of 500 varieties of wild azaleas, yamatsutsuji, abloom in May from a cable car on the Katsuragi-san Ropeway.
One of the fascinating aspects of local tourism is the harmonious and creative blend of old and new, of tradition and modernity. The sights and experiences in Gose are a testament to this. I can’t wait to make new discoveries!
Jeepney Press
Takada Senbonzakura: A Magical Place to Appreciate and Contemplate the Cherry Blossoms
by Geraldine Limpo
March - April 2026
Every year, the Japan Meteorological Society provides information on when cherry trees bloom across the different regions of the Japanese archipelago. To further aid our travel plans, websites such as Nippon.com publish top hanami sites selected by the Japan Cherry Blossom Association. This list includes three locations in Nara-ken, where we call home—Nara Park, Koriyama Castle, and Yoshino.
I would like to add one more must-see hanami spot to the list: Takada Senbonzakura in Yamatotakada, just a short walk from Bojo Station along the Kintetsu Railway.
Its name perfectly describes the breathtaking view it offers—a thousand cherry trees lining both banks of the Takada River, planted in 1948. Boughs of pink and white blossoms gracefully lean toward the narrow waterway that winds through a 2.5 km stretch. The sight of these flowering trees during their brief 7–10 day peak in late March to early April is truly unforgettable. It inspires reflection: how can the simple act of planting trees bring such profound visual pleasure and spiritual respite across generations? How often do we take time to walk, appreciate nature, and remember that all kinds of growth take time?
Revelers stroll along the riverside roads; some descend to the banks to sit, enjoy the view, and picnic. After all, it is a joy to experience this floral spectacle—whether alone or with family and friends. Once, my husband and I noticed a young kimono-clad woman standing by the river, holding a parasol over her head. A photographer was carefully staging this poignant scene.
There are a few cafés along the path, as well as a children’s playground with swing sets and picnic tables. Nearby, you’ll find a popular dango shop. Along the 2.5 km stretch, several bridges offer excellent vantage points for photographing different sections of the bloom-filled landscape.
Closer to Bojo Station, one side of the river reveals another magnificent sight—a tunnel of cherry blossoms that creates a romantic walking path.
For me, this is also the perfect place to visit when the blossoms begin to fall. A strong breeze can sweep the petals from the branches, and they drift down like gentle snow.
Jeepney Press
by Geraldine Limpo
January- February 2026
Inspired by recent trips to Madrid, Bilbao, and Barcelona, where my ears perked up at familiar words in local conversation, I began relearning Spanish eight months ago with the help of an app (Duolingo). I am surprised to see how easy it is to build vocabulary, primarily because there are many loanwords in Tagalog from the Spanish language.
In the Philippines, a version of counting numbers comes from Spanish; e.g., uno, dos, diez, treinta, ciento y cincuenta. We tell time using these words; e.g., a las diez y media (10:30), a las doce en punto (promptly at 12). So are the names of the days; e.g., lunes, miércoles, sábado, and months; e.g., enero, abril, diciembre, and religious holidays; e.g., Jueves Santo, Sábado de Gloria, Todos los Santos.
Like Tagalog and other Filipino dialects, Spanish is uttered in syllables. Unlike Spanish, however, our alphabet contains fewer letters (no “c” or “j,” for example), and so our dialects substitute c’s with k’s, j’s with h’s, v’s with b’s, and so on. We also dropped the -es suffix that denotes plurality.
Many of the things we encounter daily in our homes trace their names to Spanish. On the table (la mesa) in the cocina are our cubiertos: cuchara, tenedor, cuchillo. We serve dishes on platos, drink from vasos, and take café with azúcar in tazas. We add hielo to cool our drinks. We store goods in cajas/cajones and open cans with an abrelata. We sit on sillas and banquetas. We hang cortinas near our ventanas to provide shade from the afternoon sun when we take siesta in the sala with the ventilador turned on high to circulate air.
Among the eight Spanish villas (a high colonial town status during colonial years) in the Philippines were Pila and Bulacan, where my father and mother hailed, respectively. Growing up in my parents’ home, many a merienda included salted brioche with or without coconut jam, pan de sal or pan de coco, freshly baked in the horno of the nearby panadería. Our fathers, tíos, and lolos (from the Spanish abuelo) cooled themselves with cervezas on warm afternoons. We children watched reruns of películas on TV and chatted with friends on teléfonos. We brushed our teeth with cepillos, scrubbed ourselves clean with jabón in our baños. At night, we laid our heads on camas in cuartos shared with siblings. Even after all bombillas were turned off, my sister and I continued to exchange cuentos and secretos. Throughout the year, we observed religious rituals that included Visita Iglesia, abstained from eating carne on Viernes Santo, and recited the communal Santo Rosario.
We attended clases in escuelas, ever ready to scribble notes on cuadernos or papeles with lápices. Pambura, which we use to erase mistakes, came from the Spanish verb borrar (to erase). I was about eight when I learned to ride my bicicleta, which I would park near my father’s coche in the garaje. My father smoked his cigarillo until gingivitis forced him to stop. On weekends, my mother busied herself tending to plantas and flores in macetas in their jardín. Celebrating the town fiesta, January 15 in San Pablo, Laguna, included visiting the homes of family friends, where food such as caldereta and arroz a la Valenciana were served in large bandejas, buffet-style. Window shopping in souvenir stalls along Avenida Rizal was iconic in our childhood years too. It was along this avenida where lit-up carrozas paraded during Semana Santa.
Select pieces of clothing are likewise Spanish in origin. A lady may wear a falda with her blusa with collar, or a vestida, cinching her waist to achieve that hourglass figure with a cinturón. I saw Susan Romero wear guantes in old Filipino movies. A gentleman may be in his pantalón and camiseta; on formal occasions he dons a corbata and a camisa with mangas. We wear medias and zapatos on our feet, possibly a sombrero or gorro on our heads under the hot sun or rain.
Terms for some occupations retained their Spanish names. Here are a few I heard on a regular basis: bombero (he puts out fires), doctor (he cures the ill by dispensing recetas to pacientes either in his clínica or hospital), dentista (he takes care of our teeth), vendedor (she sells fresh produce), bordadora (she embroiders), plomero (he fixes broken pipes). A lavandera washed manchas off our play clothes and school uniforms, and a planchadora ironed them afterward. Cocineras cooked meals.
Conjugation differs between Spanish and Filipino. Furthermore, Filipino nouns and adjectives do not have gender, unlike in Spanish. However, several verbs conjugated in the single third-person present tense lingered in our Filipino vocabulary: pinta, canta (kanta), copia (kopya), cuenta (kwenta), para, manejo (maneho), alquila (arkila). The Filipino word sindi traces to the Spanish verb encender (to light).
We find Spanish words in our daily speech. Sigue (sige) means “go on.” Puede (puwede) means “one can.” Gusto comes from the Spanish verb gustar (to like). Para qué means “for what.” No one wants to be called a bruja (witch). Especially when in a mood to admonish us, my father drew from a treasure trove of expressions peppered with Spanish words: “Intindihin ninyong mabuti ang binabasa ninyo, ano kayo—cabezote?”, “Gamitin mo kaya ang iyong sentido común!”, “Gawin mo ngayon; ahora mismo!”, “¡Imposible!”, “Dios ko, ang bagal mo maglakad; ano ka, princesa?”, “Hindi ka ba educada?”, “Celosa ka?”, “Masyadong complicado,” “Tingnan mo kung may descuento sa precio,” “Basahin ang etiqueta,” “Ipunin cada centavo,” “Kaninong punto de vista ’yan?” Mom was more validating: “Kahit walang make-up, mainam ang natural,” “May regalo ka kung número uno ka sa clase.”
Many of the following words remind us of the 333 years of Spanish colonization: gobierno, ministro, presidente, campaña, candidato, discusión, elección, votante, puesto, alcalde, gobernador, ciudad, rural, centro, sitio, lugar, campo, municipio, local, plaza, calle, rotonda, viaje, proyecto, fábrica, máquina, compañía, empresa, empleado, cliente, secretario, supervisor, jefe, recibo, total, completo, cancelado, depende, explicación, banco, por ciento, interés, todo, parte, operación, huelga, garantía, estafa, producto, kilo, público, privado, trabajo, contrata, correo, sueldo, gastos, libro, historia, arte, música, guitarra, concierto, teatro, banda, teclado, ejercicio, basquetbol, béisbol, fútbol, ceremonia, efecto, celebración, regalo, invitado, religioso, actividades, decoración, clima, temperatura, distancia, tiempo, minuto, electricidad, gas. And more.
We retained some Spanish words for animals (pato, pavo, conejo, caballo, elefante, ballena), fruits (manzanas, uvas, limones, piña), vegetables (cebollas, lechuga, maíz, pepino), and colors (azul, verde).
Some of our common tools retained their Spanish names; some didn’t. We still call the screw tornillo, though the screwdriver is no longer destornillador. We still refer to the hammer as martillo, though the nails are no longer called clavos but pakos. I wonder about the considerations made for retaining some and not all Spanish words, particularly when using things in pairs, such as hammer and nails.
Furthermore, there are words that we use in a slightly different way. We use the term “desmaya” to express disappointment; in contrast, the root verb desmayar means “to faint” in Spanish. We use the term “molesto” to refer to being abused; in contrast, the Spanish verb molestar means “to annoy.”
As we know from our primary school history books, the Spanish who colonized our archipelago from 1521 named our country the Philippines after their reigning King Philip. Before their arrival, Chinese, Malays, and other Southeast Asians inhabited our islands, freely traded with neighboring countries, and lived their traditions, which included Buddhism and Islam. Thus, besides deep Tagalog words that are uniquely Filipino, such as dangal (honor) and pangarap (dream), the dialects we speak are a combination of Chinese, Malay, Spanish, and others. Furthermore, most of us Filipinos have mixed blood flowing through our veins because our country, the Philippines, developed as a result of global (Manila Galleon) trade. Studying the Chinese, Malay, and Spanish languages therefore allows us, not just me, to revisit and appreciate many aspects of our being Filipino.