March - April 2026

Walk with Me: Café or Kissaten?

Most of my friends know me as a coffee lover. “Connoisseur” might sound a bit too fancy—I’m definitely not an expert. Maybe I’m trying to be, but I’m still a work in progress.

Living in Japan is what really started my appreciation for coffee—different styles, different spaces, different moods. After all, where do people meet to socialize? Restaurants are usually for specific occasions. More often, we meet at a café or a kissaten.

I first came to Japan in the late Showa era, when kissaten were thriving all over the country—long before Starbucks became everywhere.

Depending on our mood, we would choose between a café or a kissaten. But what’s the difference?

A café, as the name suggests, is similar to what you might find in Paris. Coffee was introduced to Japan during the Meiji era, and cafés grew in popularity during the Taisho era. Today, cafés are usually bright, stylish, and lively. They serve coffee, cakes, and light meals. Some are run by French-trained pâtissiers, so their pastries alone are worth lining up for.

Another key difference: cafés have restaurant licenses, so they can serve alcohol.

A kissaten, on the other hand, feels like stepping back into the Showa era. They are often dimly lit, with a nostalgic, retro atmosphere—red velvet chairs, dark wooden furniture, antique lamps, and classic tableware. Because of their specific license, they typically do not serve alcohol. People come here for quiet time—coffee or tea, paired with a carefully made cake or pastry.

So if you’re meeting friends for a lively catch-up—or let’s be honest, a bit of chismis—a café is the perfect place.

One of my favorites is Café Paulista, which opened in 1910.

But if what you’re craving is a quiet corner—just you, a good book, and a cup of coffee—or maybe a peaceful moment with one or two close friends, then a kissaten is the place to go.

The other day, I was in exactly that kind of mood. I searched online and found a place in Azabu-Juban that caught my curiosity. It had been years since I last visited that area.

From the outside, it didn’t look like a kissaten at all. But it was listed as one. When I slid the door open, I was surprised—it looked more like a traditional Japanese restaurant.

“This is not the kissaten I know,” I thought.

But I had come all the way from Asakusa—and I was already hungry—so I decided to give it a try.

Amanoya was established in 1927, originally in Osaka as a “fruit parlour.” Today, it is known for its traditional sweets made with red beans and its famous tamago sandwich, along with other specialties. 

It may not fit the typical image of a retro, dimly lit kissaten, but for me, it was a wonderful exception.

I would easily give it a 10 out of 10—a perfect place for quiet time, good food, and excellent coffee.

And yes, I’ll definitely be back.

Walk with Me – Japan Vacation of Many Firsts

December 27, 2025 – January 9, 2026

Two weeks, yes, fourteen full days for my visitors to savor Tokyo in as many ways as possible. But to be honest, the real challenge was how to make a stay that long fulfilling and enjoyable in the most economical way. I came up with a “perfect” itinerary for my visitors, my nephews Junjun and Jom, whom we nicknamed Tom & Jerry. Truth be told, that itinerary was mainly to make a good impression for their tourist visa application.

The minute they landed at Narita, the boys were already in “anything goes” mode—nothing fancy, no fuss about where to go or what to eat. They were simply overjoyed to finally be in Japan.

This visit is special to me and to my nephews. It fulfilled promises I had made to each of them for very different reasons. For Junjun, it was a reward for his commitment to being part of the palliative care for his Lola, my mother. He had no formal training and simply followed the guidance of the professional caregiver we hired, but within a week or two, he had already taken on some of the nurse’s tasks. As for Jom, we made a pact: if he did well in his first year at university and earned a spot on the Dean’s List, a ticket to Japan would be his. These promises were made on separate occasions. Fast forward to December 2025, and there they were—on their very first overseas flight.

I soon realized that Japan and its many attractions are seen quite differently through the eyes of boys than through those of girls.

Food—Japanese cuisine—was definitely a big hit, especially with their impressive appetites! They were also curious to know whether fast food in Japan was any different from what we have back home, so they tried McDonald’s, KFC, and more. Their verdict: definitely different, and they seemed to prefer the Tokyo versions.

But their loudest cheers were reserved for convenience store food. Not a single day passed during those two weeks without a visit to my neighborhood 7-Eleven. Before long, I started teasing them and calling them The Onigiri Boys.

What I personally consider the highlight of their visit was our trip to Hakone, where—on one of the few truly rare occasions in my entire life in Japan—Mt. Fuji revealed itself in all its glory.

It felt like a gift from the heavens, a reward for our patience as we queued for the gondola ride on the Hakone Ropeway, greeted by that magnificent, unforgettable view.

Oh, I almost forgot—there was one more special “first” for the boys!

On January 2, on our way home from meeting one of Jom’s friends in Yokohama, the winter chill had grown noticeably sharper and a light drizzle began to fall. Moments later, that drizzle turned heavier and thicker—then suddenly, solid white. It was snowing!

It was the boys’ very first time to experience snowfall. How magical is that? Truly an unforgettable Japan trip—one for the books!

January 16, 2026